In this blog , I have tried my best to throw light on Dimasa textiles, weaving, looms,spinning and the various design used on clothes by Dimasa females .
I have always been fascinated by the bright and contrasting colours used in Dimasa design. Whenever my mother buys Dimasa clothes-be it be Rigu or Rigu -set, its beautiful and colourful designs always attracted me. All the above inspired me to compile the Dimasa designs and make a Blog on it.
All Dimasa Females are
excellent and expert weavers. They weave clothes simple as well as of very high
artistic designs. Most of the domestic requirement of clothes are met from the
family looms.Spinning and weaving is
confined only to the womenfolk and are considered as obligatory duties by the
Dimasa women and girls. Every dimasa girl is properly trained in the art of
spinning and weaving as soon as she come of age.
In Dimasa society , women
having no knowledge of spinning and weaving is unthinkable. The incompetence of
Dimasa girl in weaving is regarded as disqualification in the marriage market.
It is mandatory for girl to weave by herself the artistically design wedding
clothes to put on herself at her marriages.
Dimasa Females weaves
clothes with the help of traditional loom called “DAUPHANG ”. The
process of weaving is called “Daophang Dauba”. However only the
materials like Shawls and bags are woven in JENGSTU , a type of
loom wherein the yarn is tied on the hips and other end of the yarn is tied to the pillar of the
house.
Bride carries the loom
“Dauphang” to the in-laws house after marriage , not for the use of her
in-laws but for her own personal use and it will be inherited by daughter or
nearest female relatives belong to her own female clan “Jahdi”
Most of the clothes are
woven from cotton yarn and only some specific clothes like Rithap are woven
from “endi/eri silk” (called RIHENDI in Dimasa). Yet, the Dimasa women weave all
the clothes from “endi/Eri Silk” (silk made from Endi silk worm) before the
advent of cotton yarns.
The colours they use for dyeing yarns are prepared
by the Dimasa women themselves from the wild herbs( Gjaolai- red colour ,
Gishimlai- black colour etc)
Weaving is not
commercialised by Dimasa women. The women weave only what is required for
domestic use in the family.But today many of them have started weaving
products commercially to earn livelihood or to supplement their
income.
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| Dimasa woman weaving in her Dauphang |
DESIGNS OR RIKHU
Rikhu or Designs is the nucleus of the cloth that give identity to the cloth as 'Dimasa Cloth' . Designs before being woven in the clothes are experimented in traditional instrument called “GONTHAI”. One can create its own design or new version of existing designs with the help of the Gonthai.
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| Gonthai |
The Rikhu which Dimasas weaves is unique in a sense, it is never monochrome but polychrome or colourful. Dimasa Rikhu can never be made of one color. The Design looks thick and bulging like 3D art. The Rikhu includes geometrical designs , dotted designs and animals.
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| An Example of Dimasa Design-Vivid and colourful. |
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| back work of Rikhu. |
However, the Designing of "Rikhu"(Design) differs from region to region. The Dimasas of Nagaon ,Karbi Anglong districts of Assam and Dimapur region of Nagaland,weave with the help of "Shampor" (Flat Bamboo Stick) is inserted in the Loom(Dauphang) and their weaving process(Shampor eihi Daoba). This is slightly Similar with other communities and on the other hand the Hill Dimasa of Dima Hasao Dist. use the "Gonshai" (Cylindrical Bamboo Stick) whose Length is same as the Shampor. The Weaving Style(Gonshai shaihi Daoba) of Hill Dimasa is very unique, difficult to weave and time-consuming.
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shampor- Waeving instrument |
The design for females differ from the males , the designs(Rikhu) determines whether the clothes is for the males
or for the females. Wearing of Male clothes by women or female clothes by men is
considered as taboo.
Traditional Dress:
1.RIJAMPHAIN: white Colour cloth worn from chest to knees
2.RIJAMPHAIN BEREN(RAMAI): Chest wrapper with Stripes of Bright Colours like white ,Green(sometimes deep blue) , Black,Yellow(sometimes orange) and red, Worn only in special occasions(marriage, Dance, Festivals) .
3.RIGU: Wrapper or Lower Garment Worn from Waist to ankle. it can be Of various colours.
4.RIKHAOSA: A Muffler either of Yellow ,green or white in colour, worn above the Chest wrapper or shoulders. it can be also Taken by the males.
5.RIGU-SET: It is introduced recently due to influence of mainstream culture , It is a Dimasa mekhela Chadar, consisting of "Rigu"(Lower garement Worn from Waist to ankle.) and "set" is cloth which is same piece of Rigu that is drapped like indian saree. It can be of any colour.
2.RIJAMPHAIN BEREN(RAMAI): Chest wrapper with Stripes of Bright Colours like white ,Green(sometimes deep blue) , Black,Yellow(sometimes orange) and red, Worn only in special occasions(marriage, Dance, Festivals) .
3.RIGU: Wrapper or Lower Garment Worn from Waist to ankle. it can be Of various colours.
4.RIKHAOSA: A Muffler either of Yellow ,green or white in colour, worn above the Chest wrapper or shoulders. it can be also Taken by the males.
5.RIGU-SET: It is introduced recently due to influence of mainstream culture , It is a Dimasa mekhela Chadar, consisting of "Rigu"(Lower garement Worn from Waist to ankle.) and "set" is cloth which is same piece of Rigu that is drapped like indian saree. It can be of any colour.
6.BATHORMAI: Kind of Rigu, With only Rmai Rikhu(or Rmai Design) therein.
Males:
1.SGAOPHA(Phagri): Dimasa males wear turban in a head called “Phagri” or "Sgaopha", Phagri are of either green or yellow but on the occasion of marriages or dance, the bridegroom or dancer wears white phagri tied with red ribbon on the chin.
2.RIGDO: Short Muffler which can be of any colour worn by men.
3.RISHA: Short dhoti worn From waist to knee and sometimes taken as muffler also, Risha can be of different colours.
4.GAINTHAO: White Long Dhoti worn from Waist to Ankle worn only during marriages and dance.
3.RISHA: Short dhoti worn From waist to knee and sometimes taken as muffler also, Risha can be of different colours.
4.GAINTHAO: White Long Dhoti worn from Waist to Ankle worn only during marriages and dance.
5. RIKHAOSA :long muffler taken by both men and women, it can be in the colours of white, green and yellow
6.RITHAP:Chaddar or Shawl worn by men usually made from Endi/Eri silk of Endi-silk worm.
7REMSHAU: shawl only of colour either white or yellow with colourful design embedded in White background, this type of designs are found only on Remshau)
8MAGONG: shawl of various colour
RIJAMPHAIN:
Rijamphain is clothes worn on chest till knee. It has its design or Rikhu on the left end of the cloth and it is woven from cotton yarns |
| Dimasa Girl adorned in Rijamphain |
Worn By Elderly or married Dimasa Women in any occasion.
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| Rijamphain |
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| Dimasa Girls in Rijamphain.(photo courtesy: Google) |
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RIJAMPHAIN-BEREN (RMAI) :
It is another variation of Rijamphain( Chest wrapper) called Rijamphain-Beren or also known as Ramai in short, is a Cloth worn from chest to Knees. It is called Rijamphain Beren because it is Rijamphain(chest wrapper) and Beren which means rows as there are many rows of colours like Vast white and Colourful Stripe of yellow(Sometimes Orange),Green(Sometimes blue), Black and Red. It like the Rijamphain it has Design or Rikhu on the feft end corner of the cloth and this design is same as of Rijamphain. It is woven from a cotton yarns.
It is another variation of Rijamphain( Chest wrapper) called Rijamphain-Beren or also known as Ramai in short, is a Cloth worn from chest to Knees. It is called Rijamphain Beren because it is Rijamphain(chest wrapper) and Beren which means rows as there are many rows of colours like Vast white and Colourful Stripe of yellow(Sometimes Orange),Green(Sometimes blue), Black and Red. It like the Rijamphain it has Design or Rikhu on the feft end corner of the cloth and this design is same as of Rijamphain. It is woven from a cotton yarns.
In early times, Rijamphain beren /Rmai had Vast white Colour and only few stripes of red, black,green, yellow, (one of stripe of each colour) but today these Stripes of yellow-green-red-black increased to five or seven and white colour part of the cloth decreased .
It is worn by Dimasa females of all ages, only during Joyous moments like- Festivals-Bushu, Marriages and while dancing.
The Dimasa bride is also beautifully dressed in Rijamphain-beren in marriages and even the deceased body of Dimasa Females who are not widow are also dressed with Rijamphain beren during funeral ceremony.
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| Rijamphain Beren with many rows of colours |
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| Beren with Few rows of colours |
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| Full view of Rijamphain Beren with its length and breadth |
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| Young Dimasa Damsel Dressed in Rijamphain for marriage |
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| Eldery Women in Rijamphain Beren. |
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| Rijamphain worn during Dance. |
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Dimasa Bride in Rijamphain |
There are Four grographical subdivisions among the Dimasas -
1.Dijua :Dimasa living in Dimapur, Karbi Anglong region or known to Dimasas as Dijua and the people as Dijuasa or Dijua Dimasa
Similarly
2.Dembra: Region around Hojai and Lanka of Nagaon district. Dembrasa/ Dembra Dimasas inhabits this region and for long time the Dimasas of the region were known to other communities as "Hojai Kacharies".
There are some minor variations among the Dimasas in making Rijamphain Beren as well as the Designs or Rikhu.
3. Hasao : Dimasa people living in Dima Hasao region and they are known as Hasaosa
4.Hawar: The region of cachar district till the bordering areas of Tripura, the Dimasas living there are known as "Hawarsa or Hawar Dimasa". Like the Dembrasa They were known other communities as "Barman Kachari" for long time.
However it doesnot preclude each subgroup to interact, in Fact they are the same people linked with blood ties and clan. for eg. Nunisa clan is present in all subgroup . Therefore point i want to make here is, the essence of Dimasas like festival Bushu/Bishu , langauge and many other are ubiquitously present in all subgroup and another character of this subgroup is 'fluidity'. The Dimasa of Hasao when settled in Dijua becomes Dijuasa similarly the vice versa.
On Similar lines, the designs pattern also slightly differ from region to region yet it doesnot restrict the weavers from various subgroups from using various design of one another. Therefore a Hasao person will seen wearing clothes having Dijua design or Hasao person with Dembra design or vice versa.
The Variation of Rijamphain Beren with regions:
Hasao Rijamphain Beren:
The rows of colour pattern of white, yellow , red, green and black is almost similar to all subgroups.
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| The Common pattern of Rows amongst all the subgroups of Dimasa. |
Then how do we identify the regional difference in Rijamphain beren? it done by observing the the left edges of Rijamphain beren that has Rikhu or designs
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| Rijamphain Rikhu of Hasao region |
Hasao Rijamhain Rikhu like the one in above has boundaries and some sorts of geometrical flower designs known as "Panthao bar" and other designs like Baitha and Khaisuri bar. The Hasao Dimasas weaves only this designs or restrict this design in Rijamphain(Chest Wrapper) and not woven in other clothes.
Dijua Rijamphain Beren :
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| Rijamphain Rikhu of Dijua region |
The Dijua Rijamphain is similar to Hasao's one as I have stated above rows of colours or stripes of white, red, green , yellow is universally same among the Dimasas but Dijua Rijmphain Rikhu or the design is different The Dijua Dimasas usually uses Gisiplai design(sometimes Dolaigur or Radaolai design) like the picture above with some animals designs like elephant and rooster. However unlike Hasao Dimasas they can use this design in any clothes.
Dembra Rijamphain:
The Beren or the rows of colours of Dembra region is unique and totally alien to both Rijamphain beren (chest wrapper) of Dijua and Hasao region.
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Dembra Beren or rows of colours of Dembra region |
However the Rikhu(design) of Rijamphain is slightly similar to the design(rikhu) of Dijua, The Dembra designs consists of "Radaolai" like the in the picture below along with animals and peacock designs like those of Dijua. However comparatively to all, the Dembra designs are large in size.
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| the green motiffs star like structure is called Radaolai design. |
RIGU:
Rigu is a lower garment or Wrapper worn by Dimasa females from Waist to ankle.
It can be of any colour-Black, Blue, Green , White, Red, Yellow etc.
The Design(Rikhu) woven below at the end of the Rigu shows the identity of Dimasa Cloth .
It can be of any colour-Black, Blue, Green , White, Red, Yellow etc.
The Design(Rikhu) woven below at the end of the Rigu shows the identity of Dimasa Cloth .
Dimasa young girls wear RIGU with blouse in every Cultural Events-Marriages, Festivals, Ceremonies etc.
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| Dimasa Rigus : Blue and green |
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Dimasa Rigu : Light green and yellow.
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| Dimasa Girl wrapped in Red Rigu |
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| Rigu worn of different Colours. |
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| Dimasa Girls Wearing Rigu at their Homes as daily wear. |
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RIGU-SET:
Rigu set or also known as Dimasa Mekhela chadar to Assamese community.
Like Assamese Communities, Dimasa Mekhela chadar is made of two clothes- the wrapper “rigu” worn from waist to ankle and a “set” - cloth from inserted around the waist and drapped like indian saree . The designs on the Rigu-sets are similar like the Rigus consisting of Rmais, Dilam Balai. Difference between Rigu and set is –the designs (Rikhu) is made Horizontally on the end of the Rigu and Vertically on the both ends of the "set". Rigu-Set is woven from different colours-Red, black, white,blue, orange, yellow, green etc, It is woven from cotton yarns or sometimes in silk. The Rigu-Set is not the attire that is worn from ancient times by the Dimasa women but introduced in the recent years due to influence of mainstream non-tribals. It is worn mostly by elderly women or married woman on the occasion of formal events like marriages, festivals etc. However in Nagaland, Dimasa married women discarded the wearing of Rigu-set rather the married women prefers wearing Rigu and blouse as their formal dress.
Rigu-Set in different colours
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| Dimasa girl dressed herself in Rigu Set |
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RIKHAOSA:
Rikhaosa is a piece of cloth to cover chest by women and taken by men as scarf. woven from different colours of Yellow, green, Blue,White and white but especially woven out of yellow colours.
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| Rikhaosa of yellow and green |
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| Rigdo or muffler of various colours |
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RISHA:
RISHA:
'Risha' is translated as "small cloth" in Dimasa language, derived from Rih(Cloth) and Basa(small). It is kind of Dimasa towel used only by males.
This is also cloth worn by men as a short dhoti from waist to till knees and it is also worn as Muffler. It can be of various colour-yellow, green, blue, pink etc. It has a design(Rikhu) vertically on the both ends of the cloth and it is wove from cotton yarns.
This is also cloth worn by men as a short dhoti from waist to till knees and it is also worn as Muffler. It can be of various colour-yellow, green, blue, pink etc. It has a design(Rikhu) vertically on the both ends of the cloth and it is wove from cotton yarns.
The guest of honour are usually honoured with Risha or Rigdo.
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| White Risha |
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| Yellow Risha |
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| Green Risha |
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| Dimasa men wearing Rishas of green and yellow while playing the sport called "Rimin Nelaiba" in festive occasion. |
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RITHAP:
Shawl woven from endi silk or silk worm.
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| Rithap usually with few designs. |
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White colour long cloth is beautifully tied on the head to make turban. In Dima Hasao District the Dimasa men wears only white turban(Sgaopha) tied to chin with red ribbon. However the Dimasas of Nagaland, wear colourful Phagri- either of Green or Yellow .
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| Dimasa men, wearing phagri while playaing musical intrument, Photo source:Chayachitrakar of Sunil Deepak |
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| Dimasa Men in Green Phagri, ornnament, Rigdo at Dimapur, Nagaland. |
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REMSHOU:
Shawl Worn by man. It can either be of yellow and white. It is Woven from cotton yarns and has design(Rikhu) vertically on the both ends. Peculiarity about this cloth is, the designs (Rikhu) is embedded in White background,no other cloth has these kind of design.
Remshou is also used for laying over the deceased of Dimasa male only.
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| White Remshou |
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| Green Remshao (Shawl) |
DIMASA JACKET:
Modern form of dress, Jacket with ethnic Dimasa Designs.
If you are interested in buying Dimasa clothes and attires you may contact: RIHDIMA ENTERPRISE GUWAHATI:
Address: House no.11, 18th East Byelane, Sundarpore, Zooroad, Guwahati, Assam, India. contact no: +918473830060 (Mrs.Joymala Nunisa Daolagupu)
